Last weekend I watched a mate drag his MX-5 splitter over a steep ramp. The sound was brutal, and the repair quote hurt more.
The fix is simple once you stop guessing and start thinking in angles. Measure what your front end can handle, flatten the path, then pull it up slowly.
You’ll get the geometry, the gear, and a step-by-step process you can repeat every time without drama.
At-a-Glance Checks
If you measure first and slow everything down, scrapes become the exception, not the rule.
- Measure your maximum approach angle first. A quick straight-edge check tells you the steepest slope you can climb before the front makes contact.
- Make the ramp angle smaller than your limit. Longer ramps, clip-on extenders, and stable cribbing reduce the effective incline.
- Winch it on instead of driving it on. Steady force prevents throttle spikes and gives you time to pause and adjust.
- Set sensible weight balance. Aim for about 60 percent of the vehicle’s weight forward of the axle group and 5 to 10 percent on the coupling.
- Use four wheel nets or over-tyre straps. Keep lashing angles around 30 to 45 degrees and re-check tension after the first 20 to 30 minutes.
Why Cars Scrape on Ramps
Scrapes happen when the ramp path exceeds your car’s approach, breakover, or departure angle.
Approach angle is the steepest slope the front can climb before the bumper or splitter touches. Breakover angle is the crest risk where the belly can high-centre. Departure angle is the same problem at the rear.
For a fast approach-angle check, place a straight edge at the front tyre contact patch and raise it until it touches the lowest front point. Measure the height at 900 mm (about 36 inches) out, then convert that rise and run into an angle.
Two common mistakes cause bad numbers: measuring off-centre and confusing ride height with approach angle. A low car can still have a decent approach angle if the front overhang is short.
Benefits of a Measured Setup
When you control the angles and the pull, you protect the car, your time, and everyone around you.
Avoid Cosmetic Damage
Splitters, undertrays, and exhausts don’t need much contact to crack or delaminate. A shallow path makes contact unlikely.
Load Faster and Calmer
A winch and a predictable ramp angle mean fewer retries. That matters if you’re working solo with one spotter.
Stay Safer and More Defensible
Restraint failures create real consequences, including fines and serious crashes. A repeatable process keeps your decisions easy to justify.
Prep Before You Start
The right setup beats hero moves, especially when the ground is uneven or the ramps flex.
Gear Checklist
- Long ramps or ramp extenders that keep the angle mild (around 6 to 7 degrees is a good target)
- Sturdy cribbing blocks (solid timber or purpose-made blocks) and wheel chocks
- Rated manual or electric winch plus leather hand protection
- Four wheel nets or over-tyre straps that comply with AS/NZS 4380
- Edge protectors, soft shackles, and a spotter with agreed hand signals
Ratings to Confirm
Check the trailer’s ATM (Aggregate Trailer Mass) and GTM (Gross Trailer Mass), plus your towbar rating and tow vehicle limits. Match each ramp’s load rating to the weight it will actually carry, and only use straps with a visible lashing capacity (LC) tag.
Site Setup
Pick firm, level ground, or a slight uphill behind the ramps to flatten the effective angle. Chock the wheels, support ramp feet fully, and keep the pull line straight.
Measure First, Then Do the Maths
A little quick maths tells you whether your ramps are long enough before you start pulling.
Use basic trigonometry: ramp length = deck height ÷ sin(target angle). If your deck height is 500 mm and you want 10 degrees, you’ll need about 2.9 m. If you need 6 degrees, you’re closer to 4.8 m, so extenders become the practical answer.
Round up, because tyres compress, ramps flex, and real ground isn’t perfect. That extra margin is what saves splitters.
Step-by-Step Loading
A slow, repeatable sequence is the safest way to keep clearance all the way to the deck.
- Park and secure. Handbrake on, wheels chocked, ramps pinned, and no rocking at the ramp feet.
- Confirm the path. Ramps plus extenders must stay at or under your measured approach limit.
- Add a first step if needed. Use cribbing at the ramp foot to soften the initial climb, but only if it’s stable.
- Align and attach the winch. Centre the car on the ramps, connect to a rated recovery point, and take up slack.
- Move in short pulls. Winch until the front tyres are committed, then pause and check clearance at the lip.
- Manage the crest. If the belly is close at the breakover point, stop and add thin boards under the front tyres to lift the chassis earlier.
Once parked, aim for about 60 percent of the car’s weight forward of the axle group and about 5 to 10 percent on the coupling, with the drawbar level or slightly nose-down. Fit four wheel nets or over-tyre straps, protect the webbing from edges, and keep lashings around 30 to 45 degrees. After 20 to 30 minutes of driving, stop and tighten again because loads settle.
Step-by-Step Unloading
Unloading is where most people relax too early, so treat it like loading in reverse.
Rebuild the same shallow path with extenders and cribbing, then chock the wheels before anyone climbs in. Keep the driver in the seat, roll down slowly, and use the brake pedal to control speed while a spotter watches the contact points.
Even with a careful reverse setup, low cars can catch on the last transition on the way down if the ramp feet shift, the ground dips, or the beavertail changes the breakover point, so it pays to think through your extenders, boards, winch line angle, and spotter positions before you start moving. For a quick checklist of add-ons and setup tweaks that make descending ramps smoother, see what helps to unload low clearance cars before your next unload.
If your deck has a beavertail, meaning a permanently sloped rear section, expect the breakover point to shift. That often calls for longer extenders to avoid rear valance contact.
Fix the Usual Contact Points
When something still taps, change one variable at a time so you know what actually helped.
If the front lip touches, extend the ramps or add a stable first step to reduce the initial ramp angle. If the belly wants to high-centre at the crest, raise the tyres with thin boards before the crest so the chassis lifts sooner.
If the rear scrapes on the way down, extend the ramp past the deck end or add a small step-down block to soften the final drop. A slight uphill behind the ramps can also reduce the exit angle.
Safety and Compliance Checks
Restraint and positioning matter as much as clearance because they’re what keep the load stable at speed.
Australian load restraint guidance typically expects the load to withstand 0.8g forward, 0.5g sideways and rearward, and 0.2g upward if it isn’t fully contained. Use rated equipment that meets AS/NZS 4380, and don’t mix worn, unlabeled, or mismatched gear.
Before you leave, confirm the lights, chains, coupling lock, and mirrors. If you’re planning the move around a particular time of year, it also helps to understand how seasonal demand affects car transport pricing so you can book a haulier or hire a transporter at a reasonable rate.
During the trip, do at least one early stop to re-check the strap tension and wheel position.
Conclusion
Measure the angles, flatten the ramp path, pull slowly, and secure the wheels with rated gear. Do that every time, and scrapes become rare, not routine.
FAQs
These answers cover the four questions that come up most when someone starts hauling a lowered vehicle.
How Do I Choose Ramp Length for My Deck Height?
Use: length = deck height ÷ sin(target angle). A 500 mm deck at 10 degrees needs about 2.9 m, while 6 degrees needs about 4.8 m. When in doubt, go longer or add extenders.
Is a Winch Safer Than Driving Up Under Power?
A winch usually gives better control because the force is smooth and predictable. Driving up can work, but it increases the risk of a sudden surge that causes contact.
What Tie Down Angle Works Best with Wheel Nets?
Aim for roughly 30 to 45 degrees where possible, with two restraints at the front and two at the rear. Keep straps clear of sharp edges, and make sure ratchets pull in a straight line.
How Do I Set the Right Ball Weight?
A common target is 5 to 10 percent of the combined trailer and load weight on the coupling. If the rear sags or the front feels light, stop and reposition before you continue.
